stringy cabbage。 The very joint……ribs or sirloin； leg or shoulder……is monly a poor； underfed； sapless thing； scorched in an oven； and as for the round of beef； it has as good as disappeared……probably because it asks too much skill in the salting。 Then again one's breakfast bacon； what intolerable stuff； smelling of saltpetre； has been set before me when I paid the price of the best smoked Wiltshire！ It would be mere indulgence of the spirit of grumbling to talk about poisonous tea and washy coffee； every one knows that these drinks cannot be had at public tables； but what if there be real reason for discontent with one's pint of ale？ Often； still； that draught from the local brewery is sound and invigorating； but there are grievous exceptions； and no doubt the tendency is here； as in other things……a falling off； a carelessness； if not a calculating dishonesty。 I foresee the day when Englishmen will have forgotten how to brew beer； when one's only safety will lie in the draught imported from Munich。
XVII
I was taking a meal once at a London restaurant……not one of the great eating…places to which men most resort； but a small establishment on the same model in a quiet neighbourhood……when there entered； and sat down at the next table； a young man of the working class； whose dress betokened holiday。 A glance told me that he felt anything but at ease； his mind misgave him as he looked about the long room and at the table before him； and when a waiter came to offer him the card； he stared blankly in sheepish confusion。 Some strange windfall； no doubt； had emboldened him to enter for the first time such a place as this； and now that he was here； he heartily wished himself out in the street again。 However； aided by the waiter's suggestions； he gave an order for a beef…steak and vegetables。 When the dish was served； the poor fellow simply could not make a start upon it； he was embarrassed by the display of knives and forks； by the arrangement of the dishes； by the sauce bottles and the cruet…stand； above all； no doubt； by the assembly of people not of his class； and the unwonted experience of being waited upon by a man with a long shirt…front。 He grew red； he made the clumsiest and most futile efforts to transport the meat to his plate； food was there before him； but； like a very Tantalus； he was forbidden to enjoy it。 Observing with all discretion； I at length saw him pull out his pocket handkerchief； spread it on the table； and； with a sudden effort； fork the meat off the dish into this receptacle。 The waiter； aware by this time of the customer's difficulty； came up and spoke a word to him。 Abashed into anger； the young man roughly asked what he had to pay。 It ended in the waiter's bringing a newspaper； wherein he helped to wrap up meat and vegetables。 Money was flung down； and the victim of a mistaken ambition hurriedly departed； to satisfy his hunger amid less unfamiliar surroundings。
It was a striking and unpleasant illustration of social differences。 Could such a thing happen in any country but England？ I doubt it。 The sufferer was of decent appearance； and； with ordinary self… mand； might have taken his meal in the restaurant like any one else； quite unnoticed。 But he belonged to a class which； among all classes in the world； is distinguished by native clownishness and by unpliability to novel circumstance。 The English lower ranks had need be marked by certain peculiar virtues to atone for their deficiencies in other respects。
XVIII
It is easy to understand that mon judgment of foreigners regarding the English people。 Go about in England as a stranger； travel by rail； live at hotels； see nothing but the broadly public aspect of things； and the impression left upon you will be one of hard egoism； of gruffness and sullenness； in a word； of everything that contrasts most strongly with the ideal of social and civic life。 And yet； as a matter of fact； no nation possesses in so high a degree the social and civic virtues。 The unsociable Englishman； quotha？ Why； what country in the world can show such multifarious； vigorous and cordial co…operation； in all ranks； but especially； of course； among the intelligent； for ends which concern the mon good？ Unsociable！ Why； go where you will in England you can hardly find a man……nowadays； indeed； scarce an educated woman……who does not belong to some alliance； for study or sport； for municipal or national benefit； and who will not be seen； in leisure time； doing his best as a social being。 Take the so…called sleepy market…town； it is bubbling with all manner of associated activities； and these of the quite voluntary kind； forms of zealously united effort such as are never dreamt of in the countries supposed to be eminently 〃social。〃 Sociability does not consist in a readiness to talk at large with the first er。 It is not dependent upon natural grace and suavity； it is patible； indeed； with thoroughly awkward and all but brutal manners。 The English have never （at all events； for some two centuries past） inclined to the purely ceremonial or mirthful forms of sociability； but as regards every prime interest of the munity……health and fort； well…being of body and of soul……their social instinct is supreme。
Yet it is so difficult to reconcile this indisputable fact with that other fact； no less obvious； that your mon Englishman seems to have no geniality。 From the one point of view； I admire and laud my fellow countryman； from the other； I heartily dislike him and wish to see as little of him as possible。 One is wont to think of the English as a genial folk。 Have they lost in this respect？ Has the century of science and money…making sensibly affected the national character？ I think always of my experience at the English inn； where it is impossible not to feel a brutal indifference to the humane features of life； where food is bolted without attention； liquor swallowed out of mere habit； where even good…natured accost is a thing so rare as to be remarkable。
Two things have to be borne in mind： the extraordinary difference of demeanour which exists between the refined and the vulgar English； and the natural difficulty of an Englishman in revealing his true self save under the most favourable circumstances。
So striking is the difference of manner between class and class that the hasty observer might well imagine a corresponding and radical difference of mind and character。 In Russia； I suppose； the social extremities are seen to be pretty far apart； but； with that possible exception； I should think no European country can show such a gap as yawns to the eye between the English gentleman and the English boor。 The boor； of course； is the multitude； the boor impresses himself upon the traveller。 When relieved from his presence； one can be just to him； one can remember that his virtues……though elementary； and strictly in need of direction……are the same； to a great extent； as those of the well…bred man。 He does not represent……though seeming to do so……a nation apart。 To understand this multitude； you must get below its insufferable manners； and learn that very fine civic qualities can consist with a personal bearing almost wholly repellent。
Then； as to the dogged reserve of the educated man； why； I have onl